CARSOUND.COM Forum
Old 06-13-2001, 10:21 AM   #1
ROB-BOB
 
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I think it would be cool for every one to throw in their ideas and tips. If everyone chips in a lil piece of thier knowledge it might educate alot of people on the concept of spl.
I've been competing for about a year and a half. I've found that the more I learn the more I don't know!! In the beginning I thought it to be as simple as hooking up an amp and throw a couple of subs in a sealed box. Well it's a lot more complex than that. I've learn that a strong install is key in every winning system. Everything from your electrical system to box design. There's so many things that need to be right!! I think one thing that is key is to make sure your install is 100% before you dump money into expensive subs and amps. If you have the money great!! But if your on a tight budget(like me, broke college kid ), work on getting the little things right first. Like voltage, sound deadning, wiring, just the little things. If everything like that is right, your system will work out better in the long run. Start out with a good foundation. Then add to it!! Don't go buy 2 US Amps 2000x and expect to run it off your stock electrical system!! Make sure everything is balanced. Like your speakers and amps are of the same quality. Don't buy a RF Power HX2 15 and try to push it with pyle 100x2. It's okay to mix and match, but try to make sure they mesh good!!
Everyone on this forum has good, helpful ideas!! I think it would be great if everyone gave their input!!
Thanks..

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Team Dyal Tones, 7th order boyz. Two Xtreme Audio tens+ a Dual Reflex bandpass= 149.4 xtremeaudio-usa.com
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Old 06-13-2001, 12:09 PM   #2
caraudio21
 
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I agree with ROB-BOB.

Although not quite into the competition scene yet, I'm trying to get there. I've learned much about proper installation, however. I started working on my own car audio systems aboout 2 years ago, and I agree with ROB-BOB that most of the big differences can come from the smallest things. Wiring is key. A sufficient power supply is a must. Clean, adaptable signals running between your equiptment is also a very important consideration. And probably the thing that I've learned the most (so far, I know I still have a lot to learn ) is the proper box design for your subs, and applying it the best in your vehicle. If you buy a pair of subs, just don't run out to Best Buy and buy a box to throw them in. Take into consideration the proper airspace for the subs, what kind of specific box design your subs and listening habits will tend to (sealed, ported, etc). Make sure that the box is constructed out of a solid/ridged material, and make sure that the sub placement in your vehicle is correct. Placing them in different spots may have very different audible effects. Remember, good equiptment will only get you halfway there... it also takes a good install to make it great.
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Old 06-19-2001, 07:55 PM   #3
HardAssBass
 
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Cool

One simple statement sums it up: Think before you buy, do research, and don't rush into things too quickly.

I also agree with the above to posts.

------------------
Soon to be:

2000 Plymouth Neon Custom
Panasonic CQ-DF801U
Rockford Fosgate FanaticX 6.5" Components
Rockford Fosgate HPC1369 6x9's
Power HX2 15"
Punch 600.4
Power BD1000.1
Monster Wiring

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Old 06-20-2001, 05:17 PM   #4
sepp
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Keep those rattles away. Seal your boxes well. Build a wall if possible
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Old 06-21-2001, 10:25 AM   #5
shock
 
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*don't forget the batteries...this could account for 1-3 dB

*use an aftermarket high output alternator...try to get an adjustable regulator...this can often gain .1-1dB

*make sure you match the impedance of your amps to the impedance of your sub...it is safe to say that if you amp maxes at 1 ohm, you need a .5ohm DCR to get full power after considering for A/C inductance and impedance rise of the enclosure!

*Use a ported box...yes you can get loud with sealed, but ported gives you more bang for the buck

*don't bother with things such as 1/4 waves or 1/2 waves...they are just a waste of time...also, don't let computer programs dupe you into building the wrong box!

A couple of safe boxes...

for a 15...try 5.0 cu ft total with 65 square inches surface area port that is 16" long

for a 12...try 3.3 cu ft total with 50 square inches surface area port that is 15" long

*remember...it is power per driver, not the total number of drivers that will make you loud!

put your woofers towards the passenger side and your ports towards the driver side...

don't use caps...they will hurt you in SPL!

go for amps with unregulated power supplies...they are often better for spl purposes...(they tend to offer more power when given higher voltage input)

use a preamp whenever possible

do NOT match the gains on your amplifiers...this is bad...your best bet is to unhook your subs, play your peak frequency, crank volume to full comp setting...then test voltage on each amp...do not match them, but rather turn the gains till each amp PEAKS out...who cares if one does 65 volts and the next does 91 volts...power is power...the meter doesn't know which amp is putting out more power...

the list goes on and on, but that should be a good start

------------------
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Old 06-21-2001, 10:54 AM   #6
ROB-BOB
 
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Excellent info!!

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Old 06-21-2001, 03:13 PM   #7
Mike Jaffe
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Shock,

Thanks for taking the time to share some pretty in-depth info with us.

Good job. Anyone else?

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Mike Jaffe
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www.caraudioevents.com
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Old 06-22-2001, 04:20 AM   #8
RobinCali
 
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can you explain the caps part??
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Old 06-24-2001, 10:07 AM   #9
scoupen
 
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caps drain within like the first .0005 of a second. spl meters take 1-3 seconds to get your peak reading. therefore, batteries and a H.O. alternator will help you a lot more than caps will.



------------------
1991 Hyundai Scoupe
2-15" Shocker eXtremes
4-PHD2s
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"you obviously don't know who i think i am"
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Old 06-24-2001, 04:16 PM   #10
808BUFF
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Join Date: May 2001
Location: Orlando, FL
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Question

Quote:
Originally posted by shock:
*don't forget the batteries...this could account for 1-3 dB

*use an aftermarket high output alternator...try to get an adjustable regulator...this can often gain .1-1dB

*make sure you match the impedance of your amps to the impedance of your sub...it is safe to say that if you amp maxes at 1 ohm, you need a .5ohm DCR to get full power after considering for A/C inductance and impedance rise of the enclosure!

*Use a ported box...yes you can get loud with sealed, but ported gives you more bang for the buck

*don't bother with things such as 1/4 waves or 1/2 waves...they are just a waste of time...also, don't let computer programs dupe you into building the wrong box!

A couple of safe boxes...

for a 15...try 5.0 cu ft total with 65 square inches surface area port that is 16" long

for a 12...try 3.3 cu ft total with 50 square inches surface area port that is 15" long

*remember...it is power per driver, not the total number of drivers that will make you loud!

put your woofers towards the passenger side and your ports towards the driver side...

don't use caps...they will hurt you in SPL!

go for amps with unregulated power supplies...they are often better for spl purposes...(they tend to offer more power when given higher voltage input)

use a preamp whenever possible

do NOT match the gains on your amplifiers...this is bad...your best bet is to unhook your subs, play your peak frequency, crank volume to full comp setting...then test voltage on each amp...do not match them, but rather turn the gains till each amp PEAKS out...who cares if one does 65 volts and the next does 91 volts...power is power...the meter doesn't know which amp is putting out more power...

the list goes on and on, but that should be a good start

What'sup shock? I'm also a believer of huge ported boxes. A couple of questions: I'm thinking about going to that 3.3 cuft/50 sqr in ported box
with the 15" port.
What diameter is that port? Is it Round? Rectangular? Am I ok to do this with my 12" Rf HX2s? Help me out man.


[This message has been edited by 808FANATIC (edited June 24, 2001).]
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