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Old 07-26-2003, 08:46 AM   #1
getafix
 
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I just did my first ever fiberglass project... and i was just wondering how long does it usually take for your projects to solidify enough for you to be able to take it out of the car?

if i put too little mekp does that mean my project won't solidify? what can i do to hasten the process?

[ July 26, 2003, 08:49 AM: Message edited by: getafix ]
 
Old 07-26-2003, 09:54 AM   #2
trevor_2k
 
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It doesn't mean it won't...It just will take a while. I've had some pieces I could pull after 2 hours, and some after 24. Depends on hardener, temperature, thickness, etc...

Some people recommend a "hot" layer where you put a little too much hardener in and put another layer down to speed up the curing. For me, it depends on how long it's been curing. And also depends on how much it's cured. If it is still completely soft, I'd hit it up again...

I'm not the best expert on 'glass so hopefully some pros will chime in here too..

[ July 26, 2003, 09:55 AM: Message edited by: trevor_2k ]
 
Old 07-26-2003, 10:26 AM   #3
lakersfan1
 
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If you are wanting something to conform perfectly to a shape in your car, leave it in for a couple days.

I found that even after it seems completely cured and rigid, that if you take it off the mold after a day or less, it seems to warp a little. If I leave it on the mold for a few days, then it seems to hold its shape much better after it's pulled off the mold.
 
Old 07-26-2003, 04:19 PM   #4
MPipes
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Fiberglass cures with heat, so if you dont use enough MEKP it won't generate enough of its own heat (exotherm) to cure it as quickly.

On the opposite hand, if you use too much MEKP it will cure too quickly or even just catch fire!

The problem with just adding a really "hot" layer over the top of a part that has a "cool" mix is that's basically guaranteeing you a problem with warpage because now you have materials curing at different rates, and the hotter it gets, the more it's going to warp.

If you want to know when your part is completely done curing, just smell it. If it's completely cured it won't have that strong odor anymore and it also will not shrink/warp any further so it's OK to remove from the mold/form.
If it feels solid but still has the smell, it'll be OK to take out or put into service, but it still might continue to slowly shrink/warp.

If you know you mixed the resin too cool and it's just taking too long for your tastes, set it in the sun or if you can't take it out of the car use a heat gun or heat lamp and GENTLY warm the part to help it cure. Don't heat it too much otherwise it will start to kick off on its own too fast, thus warping.
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Old 07-26-2003, 06:03 PM   #5
getafix
 
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ahh... okay... I actually did what trevor recomended (the "cool" batch was still moist then) before i asked in this forum [img]smile.gif[/img] . anyway I'd probably leave it in the car for a couple of days just to be sure.

I'll keep you guys posted on what's the outcome [img]smile.gif[/img]
 
Old 07-28-2003, 03:04 AM   #6
getafix
 
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is the surface of the glass supposed to be tacky? when the glass is completely cured, would it loose its tackiness?
 
Old 07-28-2003, 06:54 AM   #7
lakersfan1
 
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Quote:
Originally posted by getafix:
is the surface of the glass supposed to be tacky? when the glass is completely cured, would it loose its tackiness?
Depends on the type of resin you're using, but in general, no, it shouldn't be tacky. Wait another day or so and see if it looses it's tackiness. But, FYI, when it's tacky, but hard is a great time to lay up the next layer on top of it if you are doing multiple layers.
 
Old 07-28-2003, 03:35 PM   #8
MPipes
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What kind/brand of resin did you use?

If you used "Laminating resin" yes, it will remain tacky because that's what it's designed to do to promote adhesion of additional layers without having to sand it.

If you're going to add more fiberglass, dont worry about the tackiness, just lay down more fiberglass right over it.

If you did end up using laminating resin, there's a couple ways you can make the tackiness go away:

1. get some "finishing resin" and apply a film over the tacky stuff. Finishing resin, or resins like Bondo brand, have a wax in them that rises to the surface which seals it off from air, thus making it cure tack-free.

2. Get some PVA mold release and spray or brush a film over the tacky resin. This will also seal it off from the air and allow it to cure tack-free.
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Old 07-29-2003, 12:37 AM   #9
getafix
 
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I'll ask our local supplier about the finishing resin... unfortunately we only have one supplier here... i'll just wait for a couple of more days.
 
 


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