Tips for spl...

[ROB-BOB]

I think it would be cool for every one to throw in their ideas and tips. If everyone chips in a lil piece of thier knowledge it might educate alot of people on the concept of spl.
I've been competing for about a year and a half. I've found that the more I learn the more I don't know!! In the beginning I thought it to be as simple as hooking up an amp and throw a couple of subs in a sealed box. Well it's a lot more complex than that. I've learn that a strong install is key in every winning system. Everything from your electrical system to box design. There's so many things that need to be right!! I think one thing that is key is to make sure your install is 100% before you dump money into expensive subs and amps. If you have the money great!! But if your on a tight budget(like me, broke college kid http://www.carsound.com/ubb/frown.gif), work on getting the little things right first. Like voltage, sound deadning, wiring, just the little things. If everything like that is right, your system will work out better in the long run. Start out with a good foundation. Then add to it!! Don't go buy 2 US Amps 2000x and expect to run it off your stock electrical system!! Make sure everything is balanced. Like your speakers and amps are of the same quality. Don't buy a RF Power HX2 15 and try to push it with pyle 100x2. It's okay to mix and match, but try to make sure they mesh good!!
Everyone on this forum has good, helpful ideas!! I think it would be great if everyone gave their input!!
Thanks..

------------------
Team Dyal Tones, 7th order boyz. Two Xtreme Audio tens+ a Dual Reflex bandpass= 149.4 xtremeaudio-usa.com

[caraudio21]

I agree with ROB-BOB.

Although not quite into the competition scene yet, I'm trying to get there. I've learned much about proper installation, however. I started working on my own car audio systems aboout 2 years ago, and I agree with ROB-BOB that most of the big differences can come from the smallest things. Wiring is key. A sufficient power supply is a must. Clean, adaptable signals running between your equiptment is also a very important consideration. And probably the thing that I've learned the most (so far, I know I still have a lot to learn :) ) is the proper box design for your subs, and applying it the best in your vehicle. If you buy a pair of subs, just don't run out to Best Buy and buy a box to throw them in. Take into consideration the proper airspace for the subs, what kind of specific box design your subs and listening habits will tend to (sealed, ported, etc). Make sure that the box is constructed out of a solid/ridged material, and make sure that the sub placement in your vehicle is correct. Placing them in different spots may have very different audible effects. Remember, good equiptment will only get you halfway there... it also takes a good install to make it great.

[HardAssBass]

One simple statement sums it up: Think before you buy, do research, and don't rush into things too quickly.

I also agree with the above to posts.

------------------
Soon to be:

2000 Plymouth Neon Custom
Panasonic CQ-DF801U
Rockford Fosgate FanaticX 6.5" Components
Rockford Fosgate HPC1369 6x9's
Power HX2 15"
Punch 600.4
Power BD1000.1
Monster Wiring

DBDRAGMEMBER

"It's never loud enough, but only satisfactory for the time being"

[sepp]

Keep those rattles away. Seal your boxes well. Build a wall if possible http://www.carsound.com/ubb/wink.gif

[shock]

*don't forget the batteries...this could account for 1-3 dB

*use an aftermarket high output alternator...try to get an adjustable regulator...this can often gain .1-1dB

*make sure you match the impedance of your amps to the impedance of your sub...it is safe to say that if you amp maxes at 1 ohm, you need a .5ohm DCR to get full power after considering for A/C inductance and impedance rise of the enclosure!

*Use a ported box...yes you can get loud with sealed, but ported gives you more bang for the buck

*don't bother with things such as 1/4 waves or 1/2 waves...they are just a waste of time...also, don't let computer programs dupe you into building the wrong box!

A couple of safe boxes...

for a 15...try 5.0 cu ft total with 65 square inches surface area port that is 16" long

for a 12...try 3.3 cu ft total with 50 square inches surface area port that is 15" long

*remember...it is power per driver, not the total number of drivers that will make you loud!

put your woofers towards the passenger side and your ports towards the driver side...

don't use caps...they will hurt you in SPL!

go for amps with unregulated power supplies...they are often better for spl purposes...(they tend to offer more power when given higher voltage input)

use a preamp whenever possible

do NOT match the gains on your amplifiers...this is bad...your best bet is to unhook your subs, play your peak frequency, crank volume to full comp setting...then test voltage on each amp...do not match them, but rather turn the gains till each amp PEAKS out...who cares if one does 65 volts and the next does 91 volts...power is power...the meter doesn't know which amp is putting out more power...

the list goes on and on, but that should be a good start http://www.carsound.com/ubb/smile.gif

------------------
When in doubt, go with the woofer that sets the records!

[ROB-BOB]

Excellent info!!

------------------
Team Dyal Tones, 7th order boyz. Two Xtreme Audio tens+ a Dual Reflex bandpass= 149.4 xtremeaudio-usa.com

[Mike Jaffe]

Shock,

Thanks for taking the time to share some pretty in-depth info with us.

Good job. Anyone else?

------------------
Mike Jaffe
USAC Event Director, Zone 11
www.caraudioevents.com (http://www.caraudioevents.com)

[RobinCali]

can you explain the caps part??

[scoupen]

caps drain within like the first .0005 of a second. spl meters take 1-3 seconds to get your peak reading. therefore, batteries and a H.O. alternator will help you a lot more than caps will.



------------------
1991 Hyundai Scoupe
2-15" Shocker eXtremes
4-PHD2s
160.6......legal
"you obviously don't know who i think i am"

[808BUFF]

Originally posted by shock:
*don't forget the batteries...this could account for 1-3 dB

*use an aftermarket high output alternator...try to get an adjustable regulator...this can often gain .1-1dB

*make sure you match the impedance of your amps to the impedance of your sub...it is safe to say that if you amp maxes at 1 ohm, you need a .5ohm DCR to get full power after considering for A/C inductance and impedance rise of the enclosure!

*Use a ported box...yes you can get loud with sealed, but ported gives you more bang for the buck

*don't bother with things such as 1/4 waves or 1/2 waves...they are just a waste of time...also, don't let computer programs dupe you into building the wrong box!

A couple of safe boxes...

for a 15...try 5.0 cu ft total with 65 square inches surface area port that is 16" long

for a 12...try 3.3 cu ft total with 50 square inches surface area port that is 15" long

*remember...it is power per driver, not the total number of drivers that will make you loud!

put your woofers towards the passenger side and your ports towards the driver side...

don't use caps...they will hurt you in SPL!

go for amps with unregulated power supplies...they are often better for spl purposes...(they tend to offer more power when given higher voltage input)

use a preamp whenever possible

do NOT match the gains on your amplifiers...this is bad...your best bet is to unhook your subs, play your peak frequency, crank volume to full comp setting...then test voltage on each amp...do not match them, but rather turn the gains till each amp PEAKS out...who cares if one does 65 volts and the next does 91 volts...power is power...the meter doesn't know which amp is putting out more power...

the list goes on and on, but that should be a good start http://www.carsound.com/ubb/smile.gif



What'sup shock? I'm also a believer of huge ported boxes. A couple of questions: I'm thinking about going to that 3.3 cuft/50 sqr in ported box
with the 15" port.
What diameter is that port? Is it Round? Rectangular? Am I ok to do this with my 12" Rf HX2s? Help me out man.


[This message has been edited by 808FANATIC (edited June 24, 2001).]

[caraudio21]

About the blast caps:

Saying that blast caps can hurt your SPL... do you mean "hurt," or "not help"? Was just wondering about that.

I agree about using amps with unregulated power supplies combined with high output alts and multiple batteries... it is the way to go with a serious equiptment.

However, for those who have a limited budget and want to try competing in a lower power class, there is something to be said about the blast cap. A simple 1.0 farad cap can work wonders with proper wiring when hooked up to... say, a new JL Audio monoblock, which does have a regulated power supply. The line power can drop all the way down to 11.5 volts, and the amp will still gaurentee 500 watts RMS, as long as the final sub load is between 1.5 and 4 ohms. For those with less cash and a lot of creativeness, setup like this would be beneficial to the budget.

I enjoy reading all the quotes so far; excellent information. Just keep in mind that those who may not have the cash to be extremely competitive in a high power class can make up for lack of expensive equiptment with a lot of creativity and forethought. Keep up the posts!!!

[shock]

Agreed 100% with scoupen on the cap issue http://www.carsound.com/ubb/smile.gif

As for the RF12"s...yes that box will work GREAT! The 50 sq inches is for slot ports...ie 12.5 tall x 4 wide! Slots are usually the best for SPL, but if you want to use round, that would be about the same as an 8" round port! Either way...make the port 15" long for best results!

ps...didn't mean to upset anyone with the cap thing...I just personally don't suggest the use of caps! Typically, you either gain nothing or lose .1-.3 dB with a cap in line with the amp(s)...

slightly longer explaination...A cap can help sustain short transient peaks in music by allowing a quick burst of energy to the amp when it needs it the most...However, when doing SPL, the meter will require (usually) 1.25 seconds to give a full reading...With that in mind, the cap will be discharged well before that when it sees a constant tone...this being the case, the cap will behave as a resistor in line with the amp thus "limiting" the current available to the amp(s)...this because the cap wants to recharge...and yes, the more amps and caps you have...the more of a difference it will make!

Food for thought...If an amp is fully regulated to develope full power at 10 volts, then a cap shouldn't be needed anyway! It would take one huge current draw to make even one battery drop below 10 volts in a single 1.25 second note!

However...to each his own and if you feel caps help you then by all means...use them http://www.carsound.com/ubb/smile.gif

[scoupen]

shock, i shot you an email about my enclosures.....i need to get some feedback from you on that, i saw what it could do this weekend(look at the sig http://www.carsound.com/ubb/smile.gif), but i need to be louder, don't you agree? that was with 4.4 internal per and 64 sq in of port per. i'm making the standard box now, but if you could drop me an email and let me know what you think, it would be helpful....thanks mike, for making such an awesome woofer....
http://www.carsound.com/ubb/smile.gif erik

------------------
1991 Hyundai Scoupe
2-15" Shocker eXtremes
4-PHD2s
160.6......legal
"you obviously don't know who i think i am"

[808BUFF]

Originally posted by shock:
Agreed 100% with scoupen on the cap issue http://www.carsound.com/ubb/smile.gif

As for the RF12"s...yes that box will work GREAT! The 50 sq inches is for slot ports...ie 12.5 tall x 4 wide! Slots are usually the best for SPL, but if you want to use round, that would be about the same as an 8" round port! Either way...make the port 15" long for best results!

ps...didn't mean to upset anyone with the cap thing...I just personally don't suggest the use of caps! Typically, you either gain nothing or lose .1-.3 dB with a cap in line with the amp(s)...

slightly longer explaination...A cap can help sustain short transient peaks in music by allowing a quick burst of energy to the amp when it needs it the most...However, when doing SPL, the meter will require (usually) 1.25 seconds to give a full reading...With that in mind, the cap will be discharged well before that when it sees a constant tone...this being the case, the cap will behave as a resistor in line with the amp thus "limiting" the current available to the amp(s)...this because the cap wants to recharge...and yes, the more amps and caps you have...the more of a difference it will make!

Food for thought...If an amp is fully regulated to develope full power at 10 volts, then a cap shouldn't be needed anyway! It would take one huge current draw to make even one battery drop below 10 volts in a single 1.25 second note!

However...to each his own and if you feel caps help you then by all means...use them http://www.carsound.com/ubb/smile.gif

Thanks shock. It's going to be one hell of BIG box taken up nearly my entire trunk of my little Toyota Corolla! But,I like "BIG" things in little packages. People won't know what hit them when they hear the bass thinking that it must be coming from a SUV or Minivan or something!!! Too bad you live so far away. I wish we could hook up and exchange ideas and demonstrations on enclosures. You have the best off the wall enclosure ideas that I have to try.

[808BUFF]

Originally posted by shock:
Agreed 100% with scoupen on the cap issue http://www.carsound.com/ubb/smile.gif

As for the RF12"s...yes that box will work GREAT! The 50 sq inches is for slot ports...ie 12.5 tall x 4 wide! Slots are usually the best for SPL, but if you want to use round, that would be about the same as an 8" round port! Either way...make the port 15" long for best results!

ps...didn't mean to upset anyone with the cap thing...I just personally don't suggest the use of caps! Typically, you either gain nothing or lose .1-.3 dB with a cap in line with the amp(s)...

slightly longer explaination...A cap can help sustain short transient peaks in music by allowing a quick burst of energy to the amp when it needs it the most...However, when doing SPL, the meter will require (usually) 1.25 seconds to give a full reading...With that in mind, the cap will be discharged well before that when it sees a constant tone...this being the case, the cap will behave as a resistor in line with the amp thus "limiting" the current available to the amp(s)...this because the cap wants to recharge...and yes, the more amps and caps you have...the more of a difference it will make!

Food for thought...If an amp is fully regulated to develope full power at 10 volts, then a cap shouldn't be needed anyway! It would take one huge current draw to make even one battery drop below 10 volts in a single 1.25 second note!

However...to each his own and if you feel caps help you then by all means...use them http://www.carsound.com/ubb/smile.gif

Hey Shock. One more thing. Just out of curiosity, what is the tuning frequency of that big port in that big box? The Rockford site likes the HX2s at 30hz.

[shock]

That box is tuned to about 48hz, but...if you use a slot port it will play nicely down to about 35hz...

LOL@808FANATIC...I will be in FL for the big tripple point state finals event http://www.carsound.com/ubb/smile.gif Are you going to attend?

Also...Erik...I will try to contact you soon and see if maybe I can help...If I don't get a chance to talk to you before, I will be at the Pigeon Forge show...and yes...5cu ft would help you a ton http://www.carsound.com/ubb/smile.gif

------------------
When in doubt, go with the woofer that sets the records!

[ROB-BOB]

I'll be at the State Final as a spectator. Us poor college kids can't afford to run with the big dogs yet..... http://www.carsound.com/ubb/biggrin.gif http://www.carsound.com/ubb/biggrin.gif

------------------
Team Dyal Tones, 7th order boyz. Two Xtreme Audio tens+ a Dual Reflex bandpass= 149.4 xtremeaudio-usa.com

[808BUFF]

Originally posted by shock:
That box is tuned to about 48hz, but...if you use a slot port it will play nicely down to about 35hz...

LOL@808FANATIC...I will be in FL for the big tripple point state finals event http://www.carsound.com/ubb/smile.gif Are you going to attend?

Also...Erik...I will try to contact you soon and see if maybe I can help...If I don't get a chance to talk to you before, I will be at the Pigeon Forge show...and yes...5cu ft would help you a ton http://www.carsound.com/ubb/smile.gif

Hopefully I'm not working that day. What day and the location or address of that event?

[basshead]

Shock can you explain a little bit more on not matching the gains on the amps.
Would I need an O' scope to view the waveform
and adjust till it is peaked out? How about HU volume 3/4?, I also have a Bass Cube should I use it and at what volume.

[ROB-BOB]

No amp is the same. The output will be different for every amp. He meant, don't set the gain my looking at it. Yes, an O scope is the best tool to properly set gains. Make sure all your amps are putting out the same voltage. This is the best way to ensure that your subs are in-phase.
This is why large systems are so hard to maintain. Multiple subs and amps can get hairy!!

------------------
Team Dyal Tones, 7th order boyz. Two Xtreme Audio tens+ a Dual Reflex bandpass= 149.4 xtremeaudio-usa.com

[808BUFF]

Originally posted by shock:
That box is tuned to about 48hz, but...if you use a slot port it will play nicely down to about 35hz...

LOL@808FANATIC...I will be in FL for the big tripple point state finals event http://www.carsound.com/ubb/smile.gif Are you going to attend?

Also...Erik...I will try to contact you soon and see if maybe I can help...If I don't get a chance to talk to you before, I will be at the Pigeon Forge show...and yes...5cu ft would help you a ton http://www.carsound.com/ubb/smile.gif


Only one more question Shock. I know people are hitting you, but you seem to have all the enclosure answers and I will labor until this box is correct. Should I use 3.5 lbs of polyfill for the 3.3 cuft box or none at all?

[scoupen]

Originally posted by ROB-BOB:
No amp is the same. The output will be different for every amp. He meant, don't set the gain my looking at it. Yes, an O scope is the best tool to properly set gains. Make sure all your amps are putting out the same voltage. This is the best way to ensure that your subs are in-phase.
This is why large systems are so hard to maintain. Multiple subs and amps can get hairy!!


actually, i don't think that's what he meant...if you have, let's say two fifteens and four amps http://www.carsound.com/ubb/smile.gif, take the amps, use a multimeter to check output voltage from the amps, and stop turning the gain when it peaks out on the multimeter. don't worry about the fact that one amp is putting out 85 volts and the other three are putting out 86 or 87. he's saying don't try to make that amp that's putting out more voltage do less just so they are putting out the same.

as for the polyfill question, don't use polyfill for ported enclosures. as a matter of fact, if you use fiberglass resin on the inside of the enclosure, it will seal all the pores in the wood better and give it more of a "reflective" surface.....

------------------
1991 Hyundai Scoupe
2-15" Shocker eXtremes
4-PHD2s
160.6......legal
"you obviously don't know who i think i am"

[808BUFF]

Originally posted by scoupen:
actually, i don't think that's what he meant...if you have, let's say two fifteens and four amps http://www.carsound.com/ubb/smile.gif, take the amps, use a multimeter to check output voltage from the amps, and stop turning the gain when it peaks out on the multimeter. don't worry about the fact that one amp is putting out 85 volts and the other three are putting out 86 or 87. he's saying don't try to make that amp that's putting out more voltage do less just so they are putting out the same.

as for the polyfill question, don't use polyfill for ported enclosures. as a matter of fact, if you use fiberglass resin on the inside of the enclosure, it will seal all the pores in the wood better and give it more of a "reflective" surface.....


Thanks scoupen. I didn't know if maybe the ported box needed to be dampened slightly or not or if the polyfill would maybe make it sound even better.

[caraudio21]

Originally posted by shock:
Agreed 100% with scoupen on the cap issue http://www.carsound.com/ubb/smile.gif

ps...didn't mean to upset anyone with the cap thing...I just personally don't suggest the use of caps! Typically, you either gain nothing or lose .1-.3 dB with a cap in line with the amp(s)...

slightly longer explaination...A cap can help sustain short transient peaks in music by allowing a quick burst of energy to the amp when it needs it the most...However, when doing SPL, the meter will require (usually) 1.25 seconds to give a full reading...With that in mind, the cap will be discharged well before that when it sees a constant tone...this being the case, the cap will behave as a resistor in line with the amp thus "limiting" the current available to the amp(s)...this because the cap wants to recharge...and yes, the more amps and caps you have...the more of a difference it will make!

Food for thought...If an amp is fully regulated to develope full power at 10 volts, then a cap shouldn't be needed anyway! It would take one huge current draw to make even one battery drop below 10 volts in a single 1.25 second note!

However...to each his own and if you feel caps help you then by all means...use them http://www.carsound.com/ubb/smile.gif

BTW thanks for all the info on the caps guys... really explained a lot. If I switch amps I'll definitely think twice before hooking up a cap or two...

[shock]

http://www.carsound.com/ubb/smile.gif Again...agreed with scoupen...doesn't matter if one amp puts out more than the next...it just matters that all amps are putting out as much as they can! Also...no polyfill...not for spl! glass is a good thing http://www.carsound.com/ubb/smile.gif Usually helps by a couple of tenths!

------------------
When in doubt, go with the woofer that sets the records!

[scoupen]

shock,
are you going to be at pigeon forge? my new enclosure is alomost done, we did basically what you told bobby to do with it. tommorrow after i get off work, it'll be time to go to town with the spray foam and fiberglass.....we might need to get that extreme reconed....the dustcap keeps wanting to flap around....

------------------
1991 Hyundai Scoupe
2-15" Shocker eXtremes
4-PHD2s
160.6......legal
"you obviously don't know who i think i am"

[got_juggs?]

Shock,in setting output voltage will there be a drop pass a certain point or just turn up the gain all the way???

------------------
TEAM AMP #239
<a href=http://members.sounddomain.com/gotjuggs>JRSAUDIOWORKS</a>
DEALER FOR: MMATS, ATOMIC THUNDER, BEYOND AUDIO, US AMP, CADENCE, DYNAUDIO,ILLUSION AUDIO

[808BUFF]

Originally posted by shock:
[B] http://www.carsound.com/ubb/smile.gif Again...agreed with scoupen...doesn't matter if one amp puts out more than the next...it just matters that all amps are putting out as much as they can! Also...no polyfill...not for spl! glass is a good thing http://www.carsound.com/ubb/smile.gif Usually helps by a couple of tenths!

]

Thanks shock for all of your help on getting my future enclosure specked out and making plenty of sense too. I'm very excited about the "anticipation" of the sound and level of output it's going to have! Finally work is starting to pick up for me so I can do this box.
You wouldn't by any chance know where to get MDF fiberboard. Do you or anybody? That would be great if you do! Seems like Home Depot only carries particle board.

[shock]

soupen...I will see you there...and don't worry I ALWAYS bring spare parts to fix subs http://www.carsound.com/ubb/smile.gif

got_juggs?...that depends on the amp(s) in question...Example...the PH-D2 is just crank it and roll...However...the Memphis 1000d is turn it beyond a certain point and it begins to pull back...your best bet is to unhook your subs and while playing your peak frequency and full comp volume, measure the output voltage of the amp while you adjust the input gain with a screwdriver...when it peaks...that is where you leave it http://www.carsound.com/ubb/smile.gif

808FANATIC...I don't know where to tell you to get MDF if that is what you want, but I can tell you this much...

John Poling, Ben Fisher and Chris Norris are all using regular old 3/4" partical board http://www.carsound.com/ubb/smile.gif In case you didn't know...they have all been world record holders in dB Drag this year http://www.carsound.com/ubb/biggrin.gif I say...go with the partical board...it is usually more cost effective and it works just fine http://www.carsound.com/ubb/smile.gif

------------------
When in doubt, go with the woofer that sets the records!

[808BUFF]

Originally posted by shock:
soupen...I will see you there...and don't worry I ALWAYS bring spare parts to fix subs http://www.carsound.com/ubb/smile.gif

got_juggs?...that depends on the amp(s) in question...Example...the PH-D2 is just crank it and roll...However...the Memphis 1000d is turn it beyond a certain point and it begins to pull back...your best bet is to unhook your subs and while playing your peak frequency and full comp volume, measure the output voltage of the amp while you adjust the input gain with a screwdriver...when it peaks...that is where you leave it http://www.carsound.com/ubb/smile.gif

808FANATIC...I don't know where to tell you to get MDF if that is what you want, but I can tell you this much...

John Poling, Ben Fisher and Chris Norris are all using regular old 3/4" partical board http://www.carsound.com/ubb/smile.gif In case you didn't know...they have all been world record holders in dB Drag this year http://www.carsound.com/ubb/biggrin.gif I say...go with the partical board...it is usually more cost effective and it works just fine http://www.carsound.com/ubb/smile.gif



Thanks Shock! You definitly know your enclosures. I'll line the inside with fiberglass resin just like you said.
So the only thing I got left is to find out the cuft displacements of my RFHX2s and the 50 sq" port.
I think that I'm supposed to add 10% to the whole volume of the box after the displaements to get the internal value of 3.3 cuft airspace and leave 1.5 to 2"of space behind the 15"deep port.
Please correct me Shock if I'm off with anything here and I will be good to go.

[808BUFF]

Originally posted by shock:
soupen...I will see you there...and don't worry I ALWAYS bring spare parts to fix subs http://www.carsound.com/ubb/smile.gif

got_juggs?...that depends on the amp(s) in question...Example...the PH-D2 is just crank it and roll...However...the Memphis 1000d is turn it beyond a certain point and it begins to pull back...your best bet is to unhook your subs and while playing your peak frequency and full comp volume, measure the output voltage of the amp while you adjust the input gain with a screwdriver...when it peaks...that is where you leave it http://www.carsound.com/ubb/smile.gif

808FANATIC...I don't know where to tell you to get MDF if that is what you want, but I can tell you this much...

John Poling, Ben Fisher and Chris Norris are all using regular old 3/4" partical board http://www.carsound.com/ubb/smile.gif In case you didn't know...they have all been world record holders in dB Drag this year http://www.carsound.com/ubb/biggrin.gif I say...go with the partical board...it is usually more cost effective and it works just fine http://www.carsound.com/ubb/smile.gif



Take that back. You meant 3.3 cuft total, not internal right? You said woofers towards the passenger side and ports towards the drivers side. If going dual ported, wouldn't you get the most vibration facing the box towards the rear of trunk? Or maybe yet(just had an idea), what about facing the box up high close the rear window? What do you say Shock?

[got_juggs?]

Originally posted by shock:

got_juggs?...that depends on the amp(s) in question...Example...the PH-D2 is just crank it and roll...However...the Memphis 1000d is turn it beyond a certain point and it begins to pull back...your best bet is to unhook your subs and while playing your peak frequency and full comp volume, measure the output voltage of the amp while you adjust the input gain with a screwdriver...when it peaks...that is where you leave it



my amps are the MMATS D300HCs....

BTW I hope my shipment of xtreme and super xtreme woofers will be ready this friday. http://www.carsound.com/ubb/smile.gif

CANT WAIT TO TRY THEM..... http://www.jmanx.com/~cwms/games/mm/mmxa/bigc.gif

------------------
TEAM AMP #239
http://members.sounddomain.com/gotjuggs
DEALER FOR: MMATS, ATOMIC THUNDER, BEYOND AUDIO, US AMP, CADENCE, DYNAUDIO,ILLUSION AUDIO

[This message has been edited by got_juggs? (edited July 05, 2001).]

[This message has been edited by got_juggs? (edited July 05, 2001).]

[808BUFF]

Originally posted by got_juggs?:

my amps are the MMATS D300HCs....

BTW I hope my shipment of xtreme and super xtreme woofers will be ready this friday. http://www.carsound.com/ubb/smile.gif

CANT WAIT TO TRY THEM..... http://www.jmanx.com/~cwms/games/mm/mmxa/bigc.gif



Unbelievable pictures man! I really can't believe how far a man could go with car audio! Darn me for not being loaded with the available funds to do what I would really like to do to my own car!!! Good luck man.

[got_juggs?]

Originally posted by 808FANATIC:
Unbelievable pictures man! I really can't believe how far a man could go with car audio! Darn me for not being loaded with the available funds to do what I would really like to do to my own car!!! Good luck man.



Thank you for the praises http://www.carsound.com/ubb/smile.gif

its was a long hard proccess. getting a shop open and getting products. now its all about getting the products out to the consumer.

its a long 9yrs to get to where we are though. http://www.jmanx.com/~cwms/games/mm/mmxa/bigball3.gif http://www.contrabandent.com/pez/otn/shocked/Wow.gif

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JRS AUDIOWORKS
TEAM AMP #239
JRSAUDIOWORKS (http://members.sounddomain.com/gotjuggs)
DEALER FOR: MMATS, ATOMIC THUNDER, BEYOND AUDIO, US AMP, CADENCE, DYNAUDIO,ILLUSION AUDIO

[This message has been edited by got_juggs? (edited July 06, 2001).]

[sqcomp]

I'd like to input what I've seen at the SPL contests...

The big boys 160 dB+ (even some of the mid 150 dB guys) are running massive power supplies! I've seen quite a bit of 8 volt batteries in series to get your 16 volt power. There were a lot of two volt capacitors in some setups. Some of the guys we're talking to are also looking into Batcaps. Our super street truck uses on little Batcap 400 and it was a HUGE voltage stabilizer compared to an Alumapro CAP. We ripped that cap out and never looked back after using the scope on the power supply.

I was witness to a nice little astro van with 8 15"s and two shredders making 164 dB. He had some mojo going on with his power supply and I'm sure he was running at 16 volt power.

[This message has been edited by sqcomp (edited July 09, 2001).]

[RFWrangler]

Heres a trick I've seen a couple of buddies of mine with older model chevys do. On the older models they have air vents that can be controlled with pull handles under the dash. Crack em open, as longf as the judges dont see you do it, it should help a bit. same goes for windows, if you crack em just a little. Probably illegal in IASCA and USAC, but its definitly a go at local shop comps. http://www.carsound.com/ubb/smile.gif

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If its too loud, Your too
old!

[shock]

A couple of success stories http://www.carsound.com/ubb/smile.gif

David Lawrence (Team Cheater Center)
Dave dropped in this box design, 2x12"s, 1 amp, 1 battery and busted out a 155.4 http://www.carsound.com/ubb/smile.gif

Ben Fisher (Team Speed of Sound)
Ben dropped in this box, 4x12"s, 2 amps, 2 batteries and busted out a 155.9 http://www.carsound.com/ubb/smile.gif

I just thought that I would share this info as Dave now holds the dB Drag street 1-2 world record and Ben now holds the street 3-4 world record http://www.carsound.com/ubb/smile.gif Not too bad http://www.carsound.com/ubb/smile.gif

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When in doubt, go with the woofer that sets the records!

[808BUFF]

Originally posted by shock:
A couple of success stories http://www.carsound.com/ubb/smile.gif

David Lawrence (Team Cheater Center)
Dave dropped in this box design, 2x12"s, 1 amp, 1 battery and busted out a 155.4 http://www.carsound.com/ubb/smile.gif

Ben Fisher (Team Speed of Sound)
Ben dropped in this box, 4x12"s, 2 amps, 2 batteries and busted out a 155.9 http://www.carsound.com/ubb/smile.gif

I just thought that I would share this info as Dave now holds the dB Drag street 1-2 world record and Ben now holds the street 3-4 world record http://www.carsound.com/ubb/smile.gif Not too bad http://www.carsound.com/ubb/smile.gif



Aye Shock. How's it goin buddy? You helped me out bigtime with my spl box specs for my RFHX2's last time.
Just have one question:
Do you know who makes custom spl slot ports by any chance?
The ports will have to be bent 90 degrees inside my box because I don't have the height space to allow adequate ventilation behind the bottom of the 15" port.
I'm not sure how to go about making this angled slot port while keeping all of the dimentions and material. Can you help me please?